Boldness, intensity, joyful luminous flowers, intimacy and cheekiness
Rising global awareness of ecological issues has seen the development of a number of different commitments to respect the planet. The commitment to sustainable development marks a real shift in the market and not just a fad.
Rechargeable bottles are increasingly common on perfume shop shelves. Most brands consider the move to be an easy action for both people and the planet. Opting to refill rather than buy a new bottle significantly reduces the consumption of glass, plastic and cardboard, with just as much fragrant pleasure!
What’s more, many brands are taking a much more transparent approach to communicating with their customers. The emphasis is on “clean” formulas with no controversial ingredients and a much higher percentage of natural ingredients. We’re also seeing a move to 100% natural perfumes, sometimes certified by an organic label like Ecocert.
Moving on from this cross-cutting change, let’s take a close look and a sniff at what is happening in the perfume market this year.
Boldness and intensity
We can expect an even greater range of intense versions to provide a longer-lasting perfume experience. Classic fragrances are now available in enhanced, more intense versions, like perfume, eau de parfum and other elixirs. The idea is to retain the main accord but intensify it, highlighting this or that other ingredient. This lends the perfume an intensity that doesn’t dominate but creates a clearly perceptible change in tone.
Examples launched in early 2023 included Angel Elixir by Thierry Mugler and Victory Elixir by Paco Rabanne.
Airy flowers and tangy citrus
As spring gets underway, bright, joyous notes blossom again. The formulation of floral fruity accords brings a new sophistication to the scene.
The citrus fruits in the spotlight this season are lime, bergamot and mandarin.
As for the flowers, they are more diaphanous and luminous. Jasmine marries beautifully with crisp apples, like in Nina Nature, in which it blooms alongside the floral green notes of lily of the valley.
Peonies and roses are lighter, more petal-intense, like a flower freshly picked from the garden. The new version of Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet centres on a bouquet of flowers (roses and peonies) that has just bloomed.
Sublime musky sensation
Following decades of rich, opulent fragrances, perfume has moved towards something more personal and intimate – like a private pleasure. Musks provide this tender and creamy sensation clised to skin effect. This year, Narciso Rodriguez unveils For Her Forever, an eau de parfum that pays tribute to the elegance and beauty of women. Bright, timeless white flowers like gardenia, frangipani and tuberose make a heavenly blend with sensual musky notes.
This year more than ever, perfumers are inspired by the fleshy red cherry and its sweet juicy flavour. The fruity, slightly almond notes of the cherry play the star role in numerous perfumes.
After the success of the EDP Lost Cherry, launched in 2018, and Cherry Smoke in 2022, Tom Ford has launched his new opus Electric Cherry. This perfume combines the fruity scent of morello cherries with warm musk and sulphurous jasmine, evoking the playful sparkle of flirtatious teasing.
Moreover, in its new feminine fragrance Q, the Italian brand Dolce & Gabbana offers a cherry that offers contrasts between sweet and bitter notes.
The French brand Guerlain also chooses to intensify the cherry effect already present in the original version of La Petite Robe Noire by accentuating a pink cherry rose accord in its new 2023 version.